Do all body care products or colognes use pure essential oils
for aroma? No, most large scale products use fragrance oils which are
derived from synthetics or constituents isolated from a botanical. Many high end
colognes can contain a combination of pure essentials and synthetics. It is
often hard to know exactly what chemical or compound has been used to create a
scent as the term "fragrance" or "parfume" for example is an accepted term for
labeling purposes. When products contain pure essential oils they are generally
labeled as "essential oil" or "essential oils of...." Product prices depend on
the compounds or essential oils used to make a fragrance which can impact cost.
Botanicals are a commodity and are affected by things like scarcity, method of
extraction or manufacture and the degree of difficulty to extract or isolate an
aroma.
How come naturally based products can smell a little different from
batch to batch? This can vary due to the ingredients used in a
product. For example, essential oils, hydrosols, witch hazel, carrier
oils that have faint aroma, bees wax and other natural bases impart
their own scent. Many of these items are distilled or cold pressed and
the aroma can be affected by the botanical species used, the time of the
year distilled, the nutrient or conditions of the soil, the yearly
fluctuation in climate and so forth... therefore when a product
contains these types of ingredients the base aroma can be slightly
different from batch to batch because we don't use any "masking agents"
- see below. This doesn't affect the skin care properties of the product
and should be looked upon as a confirmation that it is not mass
produced.
How do I know if my naturally based product has spoiled?
Under normal household conditions our products have
naturally derived or food grade preservatives for nine to twelve months
of shelf life. Other products have all-natural preservatives for six
months of shelf life. We recommend that the purchaser use these products
in the shortest amount of time possible and not leave them sitting on
the shelf. Slight variations in aroma from batch to batch are not an
indication that anything is wrong. Off putting indicators would be a
sour or otherwise rancid aroma or the appearance of mold on a product -
think of cheese. Some products however have an earthy, musky aroma, for
example witch hazel, so knowing the normal scent profile range for an
ingredient is helpful in determining the shelf life. The maximum benefit
is derived from using natural botanicals in the shortest amount of time
possible. Freshness can be affected by the environment, with cooler
surrounds maximizing the useful life. Like food that nourishes your
insides, high proportion botanicals nourish your outsides and should be
viewed in the same perishable way. Let your senses and common sense be
your guide.
What does "masking agent" mean? When you smell a product that is
unscented, and it has no smell at all, sometimes it is because the aromas from the
ingredients used to make the product have been "masked". In other words, other
fragrances or ingredients have been added to cover up the natural smell of the ingredient/s
in the product. This would apply more to mass-market products.
Why do the products that are 100% natural or nearly natural seem to cost more?
Because synthetic compounds tend to cost less and, therefore, are more affordable to use
in mass-produced body care products and for cost cutting. For example,
mass-market soaps produce glycerin that can be stripped from the soap
making process because Glycerin is worth more as an ingredient sold
separately. This is why natural "cold-processed" soap (see below) made
by artisan vendors can be more beneficial for skin care because the
natural glycerin has not been taken away from the product.
What does a "single note" essential oil mean? This is essential oil
obtained from a specific botanical species. Single note essential oils can
be blended with other single note essential oils to create a fragrant or synergistic blend.
Essential oil of Lavender can be obtained from the genus Lavandula,
species L. officinalis, L. latifoila or L. stoechas as an example of
several kinds of lavender plants that provide an essential oil. Each genus and
species produce slightly different scents and intensities which can further be
affected by origin, climate conditions and method of extraction. Not all
essential oils can be derived from so many species, however lavender is an
example of a botanical that can and therefore makes a good study for this
subject.
What is a fragrance or synergistic blend? Combining more than one single note
essential oil together to form a new scent, or in the case of a synergistic blend, when
the combined oils enhance the aromatherapeutic experience.
What do the terms top/head, middle/heart and bottom/base notes mean? Essential oils
are volatile. Therefore, when exposed to air an aroma profile begins to develop and
change. There are three main characteristics used to describe these stages of volatility:
Top/head notes dissipate the fastest and are the shortest
lingering. They are the first to reach our sense of smell and emit a light fresh fruity
scent that is sometimes biting. Examples are eucalyptus, grapefruit, lemon, lemongrass and
mint.
Middle/heart notes are the soft, flowery scents. They are
balancing and energizing, and are the heart of the perfume or fragrance. Examples are
clary sage, Roman chamomile, lavender, myrtle, rose and ylang ylang.
Bottom/base notes linger and do not evaporate quickly.
Usually prepared from herbs or trees and often used as fixatives to prolong a scent's
presence. Examples are cedarwood, cinnamon, frankincense, patchouli, pine, rosewood and
vanilla.
Some oils, in and of themselves, have constituents that will fall
into more than one stage. When blending your own essential oils try to balance these
various stages for a well-rounded and longer lasting blend.
What are the main categories that essential oils fall into? There are
mainly nine categories that are used to describe essential oils, which include citrus;
floral; fruit; grasses and hays; herbs; menthols; mosses, resins and roots; spices; and
woods and barks.
What is a `patch test'? This is the process of placing a small amount of the
ingredient to be tested on the inside of wrist or forearm, placing a bandage on top, and
leaving on for up to 24 hours. If any redness or itching occur, discontinue use or dilute
the ingredient, as in the case of an essential oil.
What is "soponification"? This is the process of adding a lye to fats and
oils to make soap. The caustic properties of the lye are changed and evaporate during the
process.
What is the difference between cold pressed soaps and commercial/mass-produced soaps? Cold pressed soaps are made at low temperatures by soponification and retain the
natural glycerin that is produced. Commercial soap making uses a continuous
process and generally uses animal fats, synthetic ingredients and fragrances.
Glycerin, a valuable commodity, is usually extracted from commercial soap and
sold or used for other purposes. Look for cold pressed soaps made in small
batches that use natural vegetable oils and beneficial ingredients.
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