Best Practices
and Wet Shaving Thoughts
By Emily Witherspoon
Em’s Place, Owner
Overview: I was surprised to realize how many men have never been
educated in the area of daily body care as it relates to shaving. It is as
if many men were given a razor and then sent to venture out on their own in
the out-back, thinking that irritation and the chore of whisker removal was
a dreaded task that needs to be performed daily for their place in society.
Many men shave for their job, their loved ones, themselves, or because they
don’t want to sport a beard for various reasons. But not for fun, and that
is the sad part! Because yes guys, shaving can be fun… or at least something
not to be hated or cause irritation.
Many men were fortunate to have a father, grandfather or other figure head
that showed them how to have a comfortable shave, and others have stumbled
on how to get a decent shave on their own, or were lucky enough to talk to
others who get a good shave. But for many, this is not the case. And it is
to those that have been flailing in this area, or have sensitive skin, that
I dedicate this article. First let me say there is no right or wrong way to
shave. There are many who espouse a regimented routine, but really… it's not
an exact science and too much regimen is not fun. And I want you to enjoy
your shaving experience. Every person is different and has their own unique
whisker pattern and beard texture. Therefore it is more about paying
attention to best practice ideas and incorporating them into your own style
of shaving. So let's get started:
Prep: What is most important? Soft whiskers, I repeat, soft
whiskers! There are many ways to
soften whiskers and the most popular are in the shower, using a damp, hot
towel or splashing warm water on the face. The question is, how do you know,
or do you already know, when your whiskers have reached optimal softness for
the best shave. Before
softening, most growth will feel like steel wool or sandpaper. However once
you adequately soften the stubble it will go from feeling coarse to feeling
more like a terry towel texture, indicating it is supple and ready to shave.
Use water that is as hot as your hand and shave area is comfortable with,
but not hot enough to scald or burn. Often whiskers can actually be made
softer at the sink because your hand and shave area can handle hotter water
than the rest of your body - for example, hotter than what you can achieve
in the shower.
Direction of growth? Do you know what direction your whiskers grow?
Take a close look and you may be surprised. It is usually not in the same
direction, so shaving in the same direction for all shaving areas could
actually be the cause of irritation for many men, and they don’t even
realize it. The first pass with a razor is best done with the grain.
(See whisker study reference)
How do you know which way is “with the grain”? Rub the backside of your
index finger first in one direction of whisker growth (do this after at
least a full day without shaving), and then rub the other direction. Do this
for all the different areas or quadrants of your face and neck. Rub the back
of your finger over the particular area in several directions and take a
mental note of which way feels soft with no appreciable prickle feel, and
then which way you feel the prickle and resistance. The “soft” direction is
with the grain, and the “prickle” direction is against the grain. Therefore
the first razor pass should be in the “soft” with the grain direction.
In addition, you can look in a magnifying mirror and take a visual
inspection to see the direction of growth. Most men’s whisker pattern is
different. The cheeks are the easiest and largest area so make for the most
simple part of the shave. The neck can be all over the map in terms of what
direction the whiskers grow. Some men are lucky and it grows in one basic
direction, downward from the top of the head toward the feet (north to
south). But for most, that is not the case. This is why you need to know the
direction, because if you don’t there is no way to get the optimal in
shaving comfort. Many men’s neck area grows downward for the first half of
the neck and then upward (south to north) for the bottom half of the neck.
For others it grows from the center of the neck outward toward the ears. And
for many it is a combination of all directions. In a pinch, go cross grain
if it is difficult to go with the grain. So take note and shave accordingly
because this comes right after soft whiskers in importance.
How many passes. The most popular response is twice. There are some
that will go as many as four or five. But unless you have iron clad skin or
a need to go over the same area this many times, once or twice is usually
enough unless you simply missed a spot. Generally you would go with the
grain on the first pass, and against or sideways to the grain depending on
your need and sensitivity for the second pass. Then just go over spot areas
that may have been missed as needed.
The razor blade should glide over the shaving area, and use a light touch
with no pressure. It is also helpful if the razor blade has been warmed
under the water first. Rinse the razor as needed while shaving so removed
hair doesn't get clogged up in the razor. Irritation can also be caused by
shaving too fast or applying too much pressure with the razor. Your face is
not a race course, and pressing too hard is simply not necessary.
What comes next - the shaving brush and quality lather. These two
items go together and are the heart and basis of the wet shaving experience
as we define it.
The brush –
A shaving brush creates lather by using a shaving
soap or cream and is warm to the skin as it raises the hair for shaving. In
addition, it gently massages the face and improves skin circulation. It is
kind, cleansing and mildly exfoliating yet gentle enough for sensitive skin.
There are a variety of bristle
grades on the market starting with the boar brush which is generally the
most economical way to start. Boar bristles are more stout and not as
flexible as badger bristles, and therefore much different to use. The higher
end of shaving is with the badger bristle brush, and there are several
different grades and associated differences in feel and performance. These
range from the entry level pure badger to the upper end silver tip badger.
Which brush to use or start with primarily depends on bristle attributes
desired, handle style, size or material and budget. Often a person will
start out with a more economical brush to see if they like the wet shaving
concept, and then move into a higher end model. The older brush can be used
for travel, at the gym or other on-the-go locations. And brush requests make
a good gift idea.
To use: Soften whiskers as discussed with warm water. Soak
shaving brush in warm/hot water to saturate and warm the bristles, then
shake out some excess water. For hard soaps, semi-vigorously stir bristles
over the soap round to pre-whip up some lather and then finish on the face.
For creams, place a dollop or pump of cream in a mug, bowl or palm of hand
and stir the damp bristles semi-vigorously over cream to pre-whip lather.
Add more water to bristle tips as needed and stir some more to generate
additional lather if desired. Too much water and you create bubble water,
too little water and you get a dry film.
Apply pre-whipped lather to face in a light, circular or back
and forth motion as lather is further created by aeration on the
skin. Another method when using shaving cream is to simply apply to the
wetted bristle tips, brush a pre-layer over face and then start with the
semi-vigorous brush action to create lather directly on the shaving area.
Dip tips in more water as needed and continue the lather action. You can control the amount of lather created by how much moisture is
left in the bristles when applying the soap or cream and the scrubbing
action on the shaving area. The faster you create lather the warmer it
is. The lather application does not need to be
dense to provide a great shave. Badger bristles generate better lather when more
moisture is left in the bristles, however neither boar nor badger hair
should be dripping with water. Use a slow, light touch with the
razor as you let it glide over the prepared shaving area.
Brush Care and Information: A light massage is sufficient to obtain
ample shaving lather. It is not necessary to mash the brush into the soap or
on the skin because this can cause hairs to break and ruin the brush in a
very short time. Remove soap residue after use by gently rubbing the
bristles while rinsing. Do not expose to boiling water, pull or tug as this
can weaken the hairs. Shake off excess water and store between use –
preferably with the bristles facing down especially for wooden or metal
handles. Leave in open air to dry and never enclose a damp brush for any
extended time. Some hair loss is normal, especially at first, however should
not be unreasonable. There are many different grades and quality of brush,
and each user will take care of it in a different way. In general, boar hair
tends to have the most breakage and shedding with the shortest useful life.
For badger, the higher the bristle grade, the less hair breakage and
shedding together with the longest useful life. With care your brush will
give you years of service.
Cleaning Brush and Razor:
Periodically, especially when using shave cream, the brush may benefit from a brush cleaning.
See our brush
cleaning video.
Our preferred method is to use a liquid dish soap or shampoo and wash
the bristles. Then rinse out soap, and apply a cream hair rinse. The most
important part is this - do a final rinse with vinegar and water (20%
vinegar to 80% water, however this ratio can be more
or less). If you have any pure glycerin on hand you can also stir in a
spoonful to the mix for extra softening. For this vinegar treatment, put the
vinegar solution in a cup and dunk the bristles up to, but not including,
the handle and swirl the bristles around for about fifteen to thirty seconds
and rinse out. Understand that the brush will have a slight vinegar aroma that
will go away with the next shave. Why vinegar?... It helps to strip out the
soap residue that can build up over time but doesn't hurt the hairs. Or, you can do the vinegar
treatment before the cream hair rinse, so you decide what order. Further,
you can use an old tooth brush with some liquid dish soap to gently scrub any soap buildup on the
handle and area where the bristles meet the handle, however be sure to brush
the hairs outward from the handle so they don't get mangled. For razors, to
clean off soap residue or buildup, try using an old toothbrush with some
liquid dish soap or toothpaste and gently scrub, then rinse clean. Please
note: don't use harsh chemicals!
The lather: There are many shaving creams, aerosols and gels on the
market that aren't formulated to lather with a brush. Therefore be sure to
look for products intended for brush lathering. Generally, there are two
distinct types of lather material. Hard soaps like glycerin rounds, and
shaving creams. Both lather well with a brush but have slightly different
techniques and attributes. Some men prefer the hard soaps, some prefer the
creams and some actually use both or combination of the two. Glycerin soaps
are generally more economical, slicker and cut closer while shaving creams are thought
to provide more cushion and a denser lather. If you are not sure which type you will like,
try one of each to experiment and find out. Or put a small dab of cream on
top of soap and get the best of both worlds... After all, a good portion of the
experience is enjoying the different aromas available and the process of
creating lather. It can take a few days to learn the bristle's water ratio
retention in conjunction with the lather material used because each brush
and soap/cream has its own personality and technique. Additional info:
Adding Essential Oil to Unscented Shaving Cream or Glycerin Soap
- video
Shaving soaps: These are hard soaps and generally of a glycerin base and come in
rounds or tubs in a variety of scents. Rounds are placed in a mug, bowl or
other container and are kept there until used up and replaced with a new
bar. They can be left in the open air between use, or kept in a covered
container. The user takes the wet/damp brush and stirs over the soap until
the bristles are well coated with soapy lather, and then finishes on the
face. When done drain any excess water from the soap container if there is
any.
Shaving Creams: Shaving creams have a runny or paste-like consistency
depending on the brand. They usually come in a
tube, tub or pump dispenser. The user can make lather in several ways depending on
preference. (See
our shave cream lathing video):
A) By putting a dab into a
mug or bowl and whipping up a lather first, and then moving
to the face. Based on our customer feedback this is the most popular method,
with the palm method being second.
B) By putting a dab into
the palm of the hand and then stirring the wet/damp brush in the palm to
pre-whip up some lather and then finish on the face
C) By placing a dab (pump
or two,
a heaping dime's worth or almond sized dollop) on the brush tips and then going straight to the
shaving area to create the lather. For a tub, some people
swirl the bristle tips directly on the cream. However a consideration with
this method is that the tub of cream can get diluted over time by daily
dipping of a wet brush right into the tub itself.
What about pre-shave oils? Some men with especially heavy beards or
sensitive skin also use a pre-shave oil. In this case it is applied just
before the lather. It only takes a small amount massaged onto the
shaving area. Apply lather on top and shave as usual. The oil will be
removed when shaving, Just be sure to apply the oil with your non-razor
hand, or that no oil remains on the hand that holds the razor as that could
be slippery. Brush bristles are compatible with pre-shave oils, however in
this event they can benefit from a brush cleaning as discussed above to
avoid any residual buildup.
What comes next - the razor. There have been many styles of razor
blades, handles and cartridges over the years going from the straight razor
(cutthroat), double edge (single edge blade on two sides), the double blade
cartridge, the three blade cartridge, the four blade cartridge, and now the
five blade cartridge. There are blades that need to be sharpened by the user
(straight razors), razor heads that remain stationary, razor heads that
swivel or pivot and on it goes. Most men can get a comfortable shave with
just about any razor of choice as long as the these best practices are part
of the process. Razor selection seems to have more to do with style, time
allocated for the shave, replacement cartridge costs, weight or feel of the
handle, closeness of the shave and other factors that enter into the
decision about razors. More info:
Razor types...
Post shave: Once the shave is complete, simply rinse the face with
warm to cool water. If you have oily to normal skin you can apply an after
shave splash to hydrate and replace lost moisture if using something without
alcohol. For sensitive skin products without alcohol are much more skin
friendly. If you have dry to very dry skin, you can use a non-alcohol splash
followed by a balm, lotion or cream, or just use a lotion or cream on its
own. Generally, splashes are the least moisturizing and creams are the most
moisturizing, with balms and lotions being in-between. Look for products
that have ingredients that are beneficial for skin care. Post shave can be
simple and make you feel, smell and look even better.
What are the biggest objections about using a shaving brush from
non-brush users? Time it will take, cost of brush, seems old fashioned
in that it is a grandpa thing (hum, must be the young guys who think that,
as my generation fully remembers at least the double edge razor, and often the
straight razor and shaving brush. Recall that the double edge razor was
the safety razor back then.)
So let’s look closer at each of these objections:
Time: Myth – It takes forever to shave with a brush and best
practices. Reality – No, it doesn’t have to take any more time than it takes
using a canned foam or gel. But unlike the cold, lifeless, harsh ingredient
filled aerosol foams, or cold thick non-foaming gels, quality lather is
easier on your face and warm when applied with a brush. The time you take
creating lather is a personal thing and can be fun. Some men start and
finish within minutes and have no patience for taking longer. Others
appreciate this “me time” and like to slow down the pace and enjoy each step
of their process. So how long does it take? As little or as long as you
want. Just make sure your whiskers are soft and you make the first razor
pass with the grain – heard this before, right?
Cost: Myth – It is so expensive to use a brush and quality lather.
Reality - An entry level boar brush and glycerin soap can be had for under
$20.00 and that usually includes the shipping. Yes, an entry level brush may
not be the most optimum, but is fun to try and better than not trying
anything. Then of course you can work up to the badger brushes or the higher
end silver tip brushes. Another thought - since men are so hard to buy for
at gift giving time, why not put a brush and quality lather material on the
list. I’m sure many gift givers will thank you for providing a new and
different idea. And your start-up cost in this case is zero.
Old Fashioned: Well actually sometimes the older really is the
better. Just because something was around years ago and went away as a
fashion trend, does not mean it didn’t work. And often it is much better.
But large companies who need to make corporate profits would want you to
think otherwise. However when it comes to a shaving brush and creating your
own lather it is making a come back. Albeit a niche market, but becoming
more popular. My saying goes “not just for past generations but an evolving
trend”.
Conclusion: The most popular phrases I hear from men who have tried
wet shaving as defined above after having used aerosols and gels, especially
if having problematic or ho-hum shaves, have been:
“I'm almost afraid to admit it, but I actually kind of enjoy shaving now”
“I wish I know about this before”
“It’s fun”
“How come I never heard about this, what took so long”
"I can't wait to try a new shaving cream or soap, and a new scent for
variety."
...and other comments similar to these. Well men, I am here to
say wet shaving can be a pleasure and irritation free. Be proud to shout it
out! Enjoy and have fun, Em
Copyright © Emily Witherspoon
2006, All rights reserved
Additional articles ...
More specific information about shaving products and
bristles grades are found on these informational pages:
Shaving brush
information Bristle
types and bloom Anatomy of a shaving
brush Toiletries
information Double
edge and razor head styles
> FAQ:
Soap or Cream, which one? More information...
